今天買了一件新衣服,月底才會拿到,
他將遠從美國飛抵台灣。
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我其實對衣服的品牌不是那麼的在意,最常穿的是日本的UNIQLO,
原因很簡單,因為常跑日本,
UNIQLO的質感不錯,以簡單休閒為主的設計風格中,
偶有潮流風味的特色出現,加上他的價格跟材質的對比是可接受的,
當然這是指在日本而言,台灣水貨商的價格是翻倍的,
也因此,每趟從日本回台灣時,
總是會在登機時見到UNIQLO白底紅字LOGO的提袋出現。
像這類在台灣沒有代理商或專櫃店面的品牌,
卻靠著水貨商的平行輸入,卻也讓它成為一般人心目中的「名牌」。
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UNIQLO 07'年春季的廣告,找來妻夫木聰跟加瀨亮代言,
標榜簡單好穿搭的訴求,
而也因為有了妻夫木聰這個當紅炸子雞的加持,
UNIQLO瞬間成為型男的休閒首選。
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-UNIQLO 07'年春季CM 完整版-
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同年冬季的廣告,找了更年輕的偶像多部未華子跟櫻田通來演出,
企圖將年齡層拓展到高中生的階段,
是跟過去以上班族為對象很不一樣的訴求。
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-UNIQLO 07'年冬季CM 完整版-
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如果要說UNIQLO是日本在台灣水貨流行服裝品牌的代表,
同樣在台灣甚至亞洲地區都沒有專櫃及代理的A&F(Abercrombie & Fitch),
近幾年快速在台灣年輕消費市場崛起,
知名度直逼GAP,就可以稱得上就是美國代表了。
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認識Abercrombie & Fitch這麼一個繞口的品牌,
是在1999年時還在玫瑰唱片打工時,
聽到的一個美國三人男子團體「LFO」(Lyte Funky Ones)所演唱,
的一首名為「Summer Girls」的暢銷單曲。
歌詞裡提到「I like girls that wear Abercrombie & Fitch」,
也因此這首歌在美國被媒體戲稱為「The Abercrombie & Fitch Song」。
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-LFO-Summer Girl MV 完整版-
(歌詞在下面)
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「A&F」是個在美國擁有近400家連鎖店的服裝品牌,
「Yahoo!奇摩拍賣」搜尋了一下,發現A&F的相關商品竟然多達8760項,
可見這個品牌在台灣的需求量頗高。
一個朋友對此現象頗為不解,
他不懂為什麼一個歧視亞裔的品牌,
在台灣會有這麼多人喜愛。
「我要是在紐約穿Abercrombie & Fitch,一定會被亞裔唾棄!」
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A&F怎會和種族歧視扯上關係呢?
為了找出答案,我讀完了Wikipedia所提供的品牌資料,
這才曉得原來A&F已有一百多年的悠久歷史,
有興趣的可以去看看,
重點是A&F後來會引起爭議,
還惹上種族歧視的官司,是後期的事。
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首先引起抗議的是1997年開始發行的品牌刊物「A&F Quarterly」。
在這份號稱只賣給成人、卻經常被店員破例賣給未成年者的刊物裡,
充斥著大量的半裸照片、色情片的明星訪談,
與鼓吹飲酒、群交、同性性交的文章。
(這大概也是為什麼A&F是所謂同志最喜歡的服裝品牌的原因吧)
而真正惹毛亞裔人士的,主要是A&F的商品。
2002年四月,A&F推出了以亞裔與其他種族為取笑對象的T-shirt,
T-shirt圖案上的主人翁Wong戴著斗笠,
造型類似老美刻版印象中十九世紀清朝人的模樣,
把歧視亞洲人標語印在 T-shirt 上。
最經典的例子,便是他們在 T-shirt 上寫著
“Wong Brothers Laundry Service -- Two Wongs Can Make It White.”。
A&F的這系列T-shirt不僅歧視亞洲移民和亞裔,
就連佛祖和亞裔女性也被輕視。
有件T-shirt上頭印著裸背的黃皮膚女人,
後方盤踞著一條龍,暗指亞裔女性淪為色情工作者;
另外兩款T-shirt則是醜化佛祖的形象,
標題還印著「Buddha Bash: Get your Buddha on the floor.」,
相當不尊重亞裔人士的宗教信仰。
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除了刊物和商品引起反彈,
A&F的員工雇用政策也被控帶有種族歧視,
因為白人總是得到較吃香的工作,
而有色人種卻只能在倉庫裡工作。
曾有人這樣評論A&F的店員:
「招牌臭臉,只對白人友善,店員很少有有色人種。」
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而A&F在台灣的崛起,主要是因為近年來興起了一股 Jocky 風,
陽光男孩在台灣大行其道,
Abercrombie & Fitch這個品牌在台灣也順勢而起,熱門得很。
尤其台灣沒有代理商,
更讓這個牌子因為「物以稀為貴」而使得許多人趨之若鶩。
當然也很多台灣人不知道,
其實 Abercrombie & Fitch 是一個有種族歧視的品牌。
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不過,只要是美國人的服裝品牌,
哪個沒有種族歧視的?
那跟美國人的自我與自大的民族特性有關,
如果就衣服論衣服,Abercrombie & Fitch的都會休閒風格,
確實也是他吸引人的主要原因。
如果放下意識形態,好衣服還是值得購買來穿的,
這就像公司的同事在跟我形容YOSHIDA PORTER的包包一樣,
寧可多花一點錢,買一個可以用的久又有質感的包。
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這次幫敘買了一件襯衫的同時,我自己也買了一件,
也是敘強力推薦我購買的款,
將近2000元台幣的襯衫,
當然比起UNIQUL一件1999元日幣的襯衫要貴的多,
但是嘗試另外一種風格也不錯嘍。
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-敘買的Santanoni Peak(WHITE)-
-我買的Avalanche Pass Solid Oxford(BLUE)-
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(題外話)
P.S. 聽豆豆說今天的行程,覺得好羨慕啊~(^^),呵呵!
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SUMMER GIRL 歌詞
Yeah...I like it when the girls stop by.. In the summer
Do you remember, Do you remember?
...when we met..That summer??
[Chorus:]
New Kids On The block,had a bunch of hits
Chinese food makes me sick.
And I think it's fly when girls stop by for the summer,for the summer
I like girls that wear Abercrombie and Fitch,
I'd take her if I had one wish,
But she's been gone since that summer..
Since that summer
[Verse 1:]
Hip Hop Marmalade spic And span,
Met you one summer and it all began
You're the best girl that I ever did see,
The great Larry Bird Jersey 33
When you take a sip you buzz like a hornet
Billy Shakespeare wrote a whole bunch of sonnets
Call me Willy Whistle cause I can't speak baby
Something in your eyes went and drove me crazy
Now I can't forget you and it makes me mad,
Left one day and never came back
Stayed all summer then went back home,
Macauly Culkin wasn't Home Alone
Fell deep in love,but now we ain't speaking
Michael J Fox was Alex P Keaton
When I met you I said my name was Rich
You look like a girl from Abercrombie and Fitch
[Chorus:]
New Kids On The block,had a bunch of hits
Chinese food makes me sick.
And I think it's fly when girls stop by for the summer,for the summer
I like girls that wear Abercrombie and Fitch,
I'd take her if I had one wish,
But she's been gone since that summer..
Since that summer
[Verse 2:]
Cherry Pez,cold crush,rock star boogie
Used to hate school so I had to play hookie,
Always been hip to the B-boY Style
Known to act wild and make girls smile,
Love New Edition and the Candy Girl
Remind me of you because you rock my world
You come from Georgia where the peaches grow
They drink lemonade and speak real slow
You love hip hop and rock n roll
Dad took off when you were 4 years old
There was a good man named Paul Revere
I feel much better baby when you're near
You love fun dip and cherry Coke,
I like the way you laugh when I tell a joke
When I met you I said my name was Rich
You look like a girl from Abercrombie and Fitch
[Repeat Chorus]
[Bridge:]
In the summertime girls got it going on,
Shake and wiggle to a hip hop song
Summertime girls are the kind I like,
I'll steal your honey like I stole your bike
[Verse 3]
Bugaloo shrimp and pogo sticks
My mind takes me back there oh so quick
Let you off the hook like my man Mr. Limpet
Think about that summer and I bug,cause I miss it
Like the color purple,macaroni and cheese,
Ruby red slippers and a bunch of trees
Call you up but whats the use
I like Kevin Bacon,but I hate Footloose
Came in the door I said it before,I think I'm over you
but I'm really not sure
When I met you I said my name was Rich
You look like a girl from Abercrombie and Fitch
[Repeat Chorus]
[Bridge:]
In the summer girls come and summer girls go
Some are worth while and some are so so,
Summer girls come and summer girls go
Some are worth while and some are so so,
Summertime girls got it going on
Shake and wiggle to a hip hop song
Summertime girls are the kind I like
I'll steal your honey like I stole your bike
[Repeat Chorus]
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